The wine list is truly international, with selections from Italy , South Africa , New Zealand , Spain , Chile , and Argentina , in addition to France and California . Pricing targets value; by the glass selections range from $5.50-$7. If the prices had been higher, I would have been uncomfortable with their unfamiliarity, but in this range, I looked forward to adventures, and I enjoyed everything I tried.

Soups change daily. On our visit, the offering was Cauliflower ($6) with Morbier cheese (ash cured). Bacon lard undergirded these hearty flavors- a welcome treat as the air hinted at the arrival of winter.

Although the menu cites “Salads,” with the exception of the Mesclun Greens ($5), there's more to these than the nomenclature conveys. Grilled Shrimp ($8) had been glazed in a lemon and coriander emulsion, presented with somen noodles, spinach, and black beans, combined with a mole drizzle (roasted poblano and red pepper plus cocoa powder) and Manchego cheese. Dry Roasted Oyster Mushrooms ($8) joined goat cheese, frisee (a leafy lettuce), and a roasted garlic and thyme infusion, laced with a butternut squash coulis and preserved orange slices.

These tasted every bit as complex as they appear in description. But instead of a precious jumble, which sometimes plagues kitchens that are this ambitious, everything went with everything else. Comfort food- imagine a description of all the ingredients that went into your grandmother's homemade soup. Add a worldly perspective, and you begin to get the impression this food conveys.

Another section of the menu offers Tapas (small plates). Tepan Taki Proscuitto ($17) placed seared rare tuna and pan roasted shrimp alongside grouper crusted with Roquefort cheese, and surrounded these main ingredients with a fig chutney and a crisped proscuitto chiffonade, scattered with sweet and sour roasted garlic cloves. The combination of fig and tuna, in particular, married two unusual yet complementary flavors. The other ingredients produced one surprise after another, all pleasant.

Regular entrees continued the complexity of the first course auditions. Roasted Pork Tenderloin ($18) had been combined with almonds and apples, along with wilted chard seasoned with ginger and country ham, plus a cheddar and sage gnocchi ragout. Pan Roasted Grouper ($18) was presented atop a Parmesan tuille cookie, inlayed with fresh herbs, drizzled with sauce Nantua (cognac, fish stock thickened with roux and a touch of cream, tomato confit, and shrimp butter). I would make a special trip for the collards braised in Belgian ale and balsamic vinegar that were part of the presentation.

Wild Mushroom Cassoulet ($15) combined roasted turnips, carrots, red onions, red lentils, and tomato confit with the main ingredients, simmered in thyme infused olive oil (prepared in the kitchen, steeped for about a week). Vegetarian, yes; wimpy vegetarian- not on your life! Savor this with a hearty red wine.

I have often read that chefs judge other chefs by their roasted or grilled chicken. If so, this restaurant should attract a following among area professionals. Tango's Chicken ($18) is coated with a tequila and honey crust, which imparts a dual, slightly sweet-tart dimension to the robust flavor of the tender, moist chicken itself. This is served over a green chili molcajette (a Mexican stew of beef, chicken, tomatoes, onions, garlic, corn stock, rice, and mushrooms) paella assembled from a mushroom melange, country ham, and preserved lime tomatillos.

Salmon ($16) had been crusted with peppercorns and seared, then stovetop basted. It was served over a risotto of soy and sambaal oelek (Thai red pepper chile paste), roasted shiitake mushrooms, and garlic gastrique (sweet and sour sauce), along with a chiffonade of savoy cabbage dressed in mirin vinaigrette.

Our party tried two desserts (both $7). Mocha Creme Brulee bore a comparatively thick burnt sugar crust, cracking open to reveal a rich, mocha custard. A crisp pastry wafer separated two small Pan-Roasted Heirloom Apples - naturally sweet, brought in from Virginia , soaked in sugar, water, cardamom, and ginger. Rich coffee was served in a French press. I seldom mention coffee because it is seldom worth mentioning in area restaurants. At Tango, it is special.

by John Batchelor, Originally seen in Focus on the Coast , January 2006

In addition to his work with Focus on the Coast, John Batchelor has been reviewing restaurants for the Greensboro News and Record for over 20 years. He and his unindicted co-conspirators dine anonymously; restaurants are not notified in advance that they are being reviewed. You may e-mail him at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

Girls' Nite Out
Let's Tango!

Originally found at: Focus on the Coast 

Since Girls Nite Out began in April 2004, we have been lucky enough to sample some of the best Wilmington has to offer. Almost a year and a half later, even we are still surprised by the wonderful new dining additions to the cape fear region. Whether downtown or at the beach, there is something to tempt almost everyone's taste buds.

We recently dined at Tango du Chat, a lovely martini bar and cafe in downtown Wilmington . Tango opened its martini bar a year ago and recently began serving what they call “International Soul Food.” Whether you are looking for outstanding and unique menu options or an upscale bar to visit after work or to catch up with friends, Tango will not disappoint.

We kicked off the evening at the bar while we waited for our party to arrive. The staff was attentive and knowledgeable and made us feel right at home. The bartender made several drink recommendations and even ‘created' a martini for one of the Focus girls. If you are a wine lover, you will have no trouble selecting from Tango's extensive list of reds and whites. Our drink selections varied, from wines (Pinot Grigio and Talmard Macon-Montebellet) to martinis and even The Tango, the restaurant's signature drink, a version of a tequila madras.

After enjoying a little time at the chic bar, our party moved into the dining area. We were seated at a large corner booth which allowed us plenty of space to sit comfortably in their cozy atmosphere. The room provides intimate dining groupings that can accommodate larger parties, as well as smaller seatings. The layout of the dining room is perfect for dinner and drinks with friends or even a special date night.

The menu is extensive and offers a wonderful assortment of salads, tapas, appetizer platters and entrees. We began with a few recommendations from the owner, Charles Brookshire. Our first selection was Tuna Carpaccio featuring heirloom tomatoes with corn and chickpea polenta, onion and fig jam. The tuna was perfectly prepared, the fig jam an ideal pairing and the tomatoes so perfectly ripened, they tasted ‘fresh from the garden.' Next, we sampled Tango's Cheese Platter du jour which boasted an excellent assortment of cheeses, olives, fresh fruit, and fantastic bread with balsamic and basil. By the time we finished, there wasn't a sliver of cheese left. Next up was the Tempura Zucchini Blossom and Stuffed Zucchini Tempura. This unique appetizer was unlike anything we had seen before. The blossoms were flavorful and tasty and the zucchini tempura, stuffed with grouper, pine nuts and scallions and served with “tom kha” broth (curry and coconut), was an instant favorite. While some of you may not have heard of tom kha, we dare you to resist!

We completed our evening with French pressed coffee and dessert. Tempted by all the lovely dessert choices, we looked to the attentive staff for suggestions. We happily sampled an Orange Tart with pinenut crust and the Genoise with chocolate ganache and fresh raspberries. Both were delicious and not a crumb was left!

Tango du Chat is a one-of-a-kind dining destination that will have you coming back again and again. The atmosphere was delightful and the service was exceptional. And, the unique menu selections will inspire you to schedule your next night out.